Voyage of Discovery
63 MILES DOWN THE SOUTH FORK FLAMBEAU RIVER
By Butch Lobermeier
In June of 2006, four members of the SFFRWA formulated a plan to complete one of the requirements written into the $10,000 WDNR River Protection Grant received by the group in 2004. The grant obligated SFFRWA to research the health of the riparian buffer conditions by documenting the prescience of rare and endangered species, invasive species, and shoreland habitat concerns. What began as an obligatory chore, quickly transcended into a work-week long anxious anticipation to paddle the next leg of the 63-mile voyage. Our new life as river adventurers had begun.
This band of four river explorers consisted of SFFRWA members Butch and Mary Lobermeier and Rick and Vickie Thorbjornsen. None in the group had yet experienced the accomplishment of having paddled the entire South Fork, and there was high level anticipation of what this quest would require of us. Adding to the sense of adventure was the relative inexperience of the group. Butch and Mary had two years of kayaking experience, but Rick and Vickie were new to the sport, having purchased their kayaks in May.
With this series of stories we want to share the sights, sounds, and feelings experienced during kayaking down the South Fork. We want everyone to know that if we could do it, it must not be THAT difficult. We hope that this journal account of our adventure will encourage and embolden others in the SFFRWA to complete the pilgrimage along the entire course of our magnificent little river. We hope that you will find the time to enjoy the quiet scenery, abundant wildlife, and the feel of the wild waterway for yourselves.
Leg I - Round Lake Dam to Cedar Rapids: 12 Miles
The June water conditions on the upper reaches of the South Fork were excellent as we began our 63-mile quest. We launched our kayaks at the footbridge off the USDA Forest Service parking lot, then paddled upstream to the dam so that the journey could be "certified" as complete. Looking upstream at the dam, I reflected on the work it took to engineer this structure back in the 1800's to serve the robust logging boom. The same dedication to purpose was exhibited by a group of citizen volunteers and the USDA Forest Service in restoring the dam to its present role as a unique, historical attraction for visitors to our area.
And away we go! Paddling downstream from the dam the river is intimately narrow, quiet and close to the voyager with only a few rocky riffles until Fish Trap Rapids just upstream from FR 144. This reach of river is passable only in higher flows so it gets limited traffic. The abundant waterfowl and many deer seemed curious about our presence in their world that day. There is a dark, cool grove of Hemlock on river left that is reminiscent of the old growth forests of the pre-settlement days. Near this point we encountered the first "white water", a large riffle but with flow enough to announce itself before we could see it.
Being new to kayaking, Vickie shared with us her anxiety over the upcoming rapids. "It sounds like the wind," she said, a phrase we came to use often during the rest of our journey. The current quickened as we reached the head of the riffle, and the first kayaks started slipping through the chute. Vickie memorized the successful course of the previous boats, and she was ready. Down the chute, quick slip to the right of the rock, back to the left, hard! Turn out into the eddy with the other kayaks and a big round of Hoo Yas! Another kayak lifer is created. It is noteworthy that from this point on, when Vickie heard "the wind", she would quicken the stroke and often was the first in the pod to launch into the standing waves.
Fish Trap Rapids has an eagle's nest in a white pine tree on river right near its head. This is a nice run that requires a bit of finesse and also marks a change in the look of the river. Below FR 144 the river widens and slows down as it passes an area of development on river left. Some of the landowners are starting shoreland restoration activities here, while some others need to consider it. SFFRWA members Manny and Roz Stein live here in a log home that Manny built. They completed a shoreland stabilization and restoration project in 2006 that will protect a steep bank and a huge over-hanging white pine tree. Today the eagle was on his perch in Manny's pine, over-looking the river and his world. I believe he gave our passing a knowing smile as we passed directly under him, perhaps sensing that as members of the SFFRWA, we were a large part of making sure his home remained livable. He was the first of many eagles seen during the South Fork journey.
A stretch of flat water is interrupted by a series of three short, quick rapids known as Little Bull Dam, Little Bull Rapids, and the Riley Creek Dam. The dams are remnants of both the logging era and the days of the Civilian Conservation Corps years. These quick drops can catch one by surprise with a standing wave offering up a lap full of water or worse, so choose the chute carefully. These are all pretty spots and good places for a stretch. A couple of looks down stream is a stabilization project completed some years ago by the Forest Service with the WCC crew. The rock rip rap was installed and it has halted the deterioration of a steep, sandy slope in a sharp right-turn bend.
The next few miles show the effects of the severe damage caused by flooding during the logging era. Here the damage has been too great and has overwhelmed nature's ability to repair itself from the damage inflicted. It is characterized by wide, shallow sand flats with little resemblance to a natural riverine habitat. The loss of habitat has altered the river ecology in this area as well, with the sand holding few mussels and even fewer fish. The USDA Forest Service is helping to resurrect the natural flow of the river through a major restoration work. Six miles of river will be reworked by narrowing the bed and creating a meander to the river course. This narrowing will allow the river to regain power to its current, scour out the sand and expose the precious gravel beds so essential to river ecology. With power restored to the current, the river will begin to heal in a natural manner. There may be opportunities for the SFFRWA members to assist with this restoration work in July 2007 by moving muzzles out of the construction areas.
The next whitewater is Smith Rapids, and its long boulder filled course needs a significant amount of finesse in all but the highest of flows. It is fun to negotiate as it requires numerous cross river maneuvers to stay with the flow. Midway through the rapids you will pass under the covered bridge, one of the few in Wisconsin. Constructed in 1991 by the USDA Forest Service, it has become a major attraction for visitors to the area. There is a takeout just below the bridge in the campground area. Picnic tables, toilets, a water pump, and the chance to take a closer look at the covered bridge make this a must-stop break area.
Launching again, we finished the tail end of Smith Rapids and started out on another long, scenic stretch of flat water. We followed behind an eagle for miles until he held up at the rock outcrop called Natural Dam Rapids. Rock outcroppings form the rapids in a quick right to left narrow chute that ends in a large pool noted for decent fishing. Several miles of slow river over sand flats is evidence that there is a tremendous need for restoration work to help the South Fork recover its true personality.
Late afternoon had our pod of kayaks entering the head end of Class II Cedar Rapids. This long boulder garden is a challenge in moderate flows and the blinding sun glare from the late afternoon sun made the task somewhat impossible. There were numerous bumps and grinds as our very forgiving kayaks ricocheted down stream, but there were no major hang-ups or dumps. All four adventurers chose somewhat different courses through the rocks but the results were equally problematic for all. The beauty of the kayak is that it is so forgiving of bad planning and poor judgment.
It was a great feeling of accomplishment as we passed under the Cedar Rapids bridge, having completed the first12-mile leg of our adventure. We hauled the kayaks up the bank to the truck and refreshed ourselves with cold malt beverages from the cooler. As the day cooled, and dusk settled into night, we stood on the bridge, watching the water and reflecting.
Myself, I remembered the first time I canoed down this river as a boy fifty years ago. My Dad was steering the canoe then and the rapids all seemed much bigger. The South Fork was his favorite river, as it was to his father. And Cedar Rapids was his favorite place on the river. Dad's ashes are with the river now, right here at Cedar Rapids. I had another day on the river with Dad today, if only in my reflections.
Leg II - Cedar Rapids to Blockhouse Dam: 11 Miles
Unloading the kayaks at Cedar Rapids, we remarked on how pleased we were with the rapid development of our kayak piloting skills during the last voyage. Today we would work to further refine the navigation skills of the flotilla, looking forward to proving our prowess later in the afternoon by taking the self-test administered by the infamous Blockhouse Dam Rapids. Water conditions were still very good for the journey.
It should be noted that our voyage terminated after 11 miles at Blockhouse Rapids, rather than at Fifield as is typical for most paddlers. We had permission to take out at my brother-in-law's property at the head end of the rapids. Without access to this private land take-out, the trip is typically 19 miles long. This lengthy voyage through slow water is much too long for many paddlers so it just isn't paddled much.
This trip is now much more doable thanks to the partnership between the WDNR and the SFFRWA. A new carry-in access has been constructed on State property bordering Woody Road. This location is about 2 miles below Blockhouse Rapids. The WDNR constructed the much needed access point with the SFFRWA volunteering to do the light maintenance and upkeep on the site. This new access point creates the opportunity to take an easy 6-mile trip to Fifield.
This reach of river is the least interesting of all sections of the South Fork in this paddler's opinion. It is marked by long stretches of slow water and wide, shallow flats. That being said, it has one very exciting rapids and good numbers of diverse wildlife habitats. I only make this comment because so much of the South Fork is absolutely fantastic. So, it is a pretty nice stretch of river to be considered last!
We put in below the Cedar Rapids Bridge on FR 149 and quickly passed through Lower Cedar Rapids a short look downstream. After this short drop, the river widens and slows again for about a mile. Sugar Bush Dam creates a sharp drop from the pond it creates above. It is easy to shoot, and the adage "Hi diddle diddle, Right down the middle" seems to work well. Below the rock dam, there is pretty good fishing. The spot attracts a lot of fishermen, but most are doing catch and release, thereby preserving the fish numbers and creating a quality fishery. The flat water continues again for four miles passing an area of residential development along East Road. The river passes through a large wild rice bed in this area and there is usually a diverse assortment of waterfowl present for viewing pleasure.
There are quite a number of buildings along the river for several miles. Many of the residences are lacking shoreland buffers. It is easy to see where shorelines lacking native plants allow the shorelines to recede and erode into the river. The cause and effect is striking! The importance of buffers to the health of a waterway cannot be emphasized enough. There is still a lot of education opportunity out there. Sugar Bush Dam and Sugar Bush Rapids are also in this stretch as it approaches FR 152. Both of these white water drops are quick and an enjoyable change after the long stretch of flat water. The rapids continues for quite a stretch below Sugar Bush and even with good water, maneuvering is a must as there are many rocks and shallows. At a mile below the bridge, the river comes close to FR 152 again at Champaign Bend. This is a rustic access that is not used very often.
About two miles further along the slow moving flats is the infamous Blockhouse Rapids. This can be a dangerous run when water is very high. It can also be impossible to run when water is low. The day we were passing through, the water was just right for an exciting run. There are sufficient boulders and rocks to create an appreciation of our growing kayaking skills. All four of our boats made the run without mishap this time. Unlike the last several times we have run these rapids when our group has experienced numerous swampings. After running the rapids, we loaded the kayaks and headed for Jack's Corner Bar for dinner, refreshments, and reflections on the day.
Leg III - Blockhouse Rapids to Fifield: 8 Miles
Returning to Blockhouse Rapids we launched at my brother-in-law's cottage at the head of the rapids. The water was high enough to try the run again. It took some amount of finesse to negotiate the pathway through the boulders, but all four kayaks did so successfully. There is a short section of development along both river banks bordering Woody and Hoefferle Roads. This is also the section where the WDNR has constructed the new carry-in access site that will let more people enjoy the river for a short float to Fifield. After the development at Woody and Hoefferle Roads, there are occasional cabins but most are well-screened and aesthetically unobtrusive. Fishing was also good, but the smallies ran small; most were only about nine to twelve inches long.
There are many small rapids and riffles along the way to Fifield. All are scenic and easy to run. Forest Rapids is tree-canopied and a beautiful view as the long run passes through tall trees and a narrow river bed. Divine Rapids Dam has good fishing above and a gorgeous, moderately fast run below. Divine Rapids runs out into flat water again and river right has significant new development occurring along Divine Rapids Road. Miller Rapids begins just above the Divine Rapids Road Bridge and is a quick enjoyable run through moderately developed shoreline. Development is intermittent along the way as are the riffles and runs. The river paralleling Lofdahl Road is very scenic with a long run of big riffles. A reminder the local logging history is still visible at the Sortin' Works Rapids, the place where the logs were separated prior to reaching the mill in Fifield. Just above the Highway 70 bridge is the Old Dam Rapids that ponded water to float the logs awaiting the saw blade at the local mill.
Ending the day at Movrich Memorial Park in Fifield, it is clear the South Fork Flambeau is an important part of the personality of the community. The importance of Fifield's connection to the river both currently and historically is evidenced by the care of the riverside community park, displays in the Old Town Hall Museum, and through the activities of local organizations and partners to market the Fifield area to tourists and businesses. Fifield is located just about half way between the river headwaters at Round Lake Dam and its confluence with the North Fork Flambeau River.
Leg IV - Fifield to Lugerville: 11 Miles
Recent rain had raised the river levels to bank-full with plenty of water to run the rapids. Fifield to Rocky Carry usually takes about five hours plus fishing time and is quite scenic. Most of the rapids and riffles are small and easy to run, but the trip ends with Rocky Carry, which can be wild in high water and impassable in low water. Fishing was good on this section with more northern pike being caught than farther upstream. Wildlife was also abundant with many deer, eagles, and waterfowl sighted.
Rocky Carry was flowing fast and full, with big waves splashing over the many large rocks. Once the boat enters Rock Carry, one is pretty well committed to seeing it through. Mary had second thoughts on running the rapids, but those thoughts quickly left her once she realized there was no going back. It was a low and bright, late afternoon sun that made the run even more challenging to us. It is tough to avoid boulders made invisible by the blinding glare. The glare did Rick in as he went atop a big rock and was swamped. This happened in a place that was not very difficult otherwise and was a reminder that even small mistakes can magnify themselves occasionally. Rick righted himself, emptied the kayak and continued down the river. The unexpected is what makes the trips so much fun. The other three kayaks made the run to Rocky Carry Park with no additional problems.
